Keg coolers, whether for home or bar, are one of the most economical ways to dispense draft beer. Designed as stand alone units, they hold beer at serving temperature from the keg to the faucet.

In a commercial setting, many bars rely exclusively on keg coolers for their draft needs while others use keg coolers to augment an existing long draw beer system. Hotels, stadiums and event centers mount keg coolers on casters for the ability to position the coolers where and when needed in the facilities.

The most common keg coolers have self contained refrigeration systems that merely require a connection to the building’s electrical system, usually a standard 115V cord and plug, making these units easy to install and maintain. Where space is at a premium, or when the noise of a refrigeration compressor would be unwanted, remotely cooled systems are available. No matter the size or the usage, keg coolers rely on the cold air within the cabinet to keep the beer lines cold all the way to the faucet.

Smaller single keg coolers find their way into homes, frequently as an alternative to packaged beer or when the consumer is a home-brewer. In fact, the idea is so popular at the consumer level that Rapids provides kits to convert old refrigerators into single keg home beer dispensers – instant recycling for old refrigerators, and a vast cost savings compared to purchasing a factory produced cooler. (For more on converting upright consumer refrigerators to keg coolers, please see the selection on the main page titled “Home Conversion Kits for Refrigerators”)

Keg coolers come in many configurations:

• Club tops with top sliding compartments for storing chilled glasses or specialty products.
• All stainless steel exteriors for an upscale look.
• Single and multiple faucet tower arrangements.
• Specialty keg coolers with the capability of dispensing keg beer and glass doors for displaying chilled premium bottled products.

Following are the most common questions and answers about keg coolers and their operation and maintenance.

What do I need to setup my keg cooler? TOP

1. For a single keg cooler set up (providing you have a keg box with a draft arm) you will need the proper hose size and length, 5’ of 3/16” I.D. soft line beer hose with tail piece and hex nut on the end. If you have a stainless steel down tube on your draft arm, you will need 4’ of 3/16” I.D. beer hose.
2. One keg tap (coupler) with 2316B neoprene coupling washer for each keg. The type of coupler varies with the type of beer being dispensed.
3. CO2 hose, hose clamps for each keg.
4. CO2 tank and regulator.
5. On multi keg set ups, you will need a CO2 distributor for each keg. This will only work if the desired pressure is the same on every keg.
6. If you need different pressures for each keg, you will need a secondary (inline) regulator for each keg. The primary regulator on the CO2 tank will have to be set 5 pounds higher then the highest secondary regulator to insure they will all get the proper gas pressure. You will need additional CO2 hose, clamps, neoprene washers, and keg taps for each beer.

For a single keg box, choose from Rapids' kits:

PT751 with CO2 tank and US Sankey coupler or
PT759 with CO2 tank and 2-probe coupler.
The kit includes choice of keg coupler plus: CO2 tank, double gauge regulator, cleaning kit, hoses, clamps and washers.

For CO2 applications with multiple kegs, it is best to purchase these additions to the kits listed above:

• One coupler for each keg (catalog number depends on choice).
• One 3/16” beer hose assembly for each keg-to-tower connection (PC176D).
• CO2 hose for each coupler, usually 4 to 5 feet each (171R, sold by the foot).
• Clamps for each end of the CO2 hose (2379, two required per hose length).

For same pressure CO2 applications, a CO2 distributor as follows:

2 keg (204)
3 keg (204A)
4 keg (204B)

For systems needing different pressures from the same bottle:

2 keg (3N122)
3 keg (3N133)
4 keg (3N144)

• Another length of CO2 hose (171R) plus clamps to run from the CO2 distributor to the CO2 tank.
• A regulator of your choice.
• A CO2 tank of your choice.

If you will be using inline secondary regulators such as the 3N122, 3N133 and 3N144 – make sure your main CO2 regulator at the tank is set to a pressure 5 pounds HIGHER than the pressure set on your highest secondary regulator!

The CO2 tank shipped empty, where do I purchase CO2? TOP

• CO2 tanks always ship empty due to transportation regulations against shipping pressurized containers.
• Your CO2 tank can be filled by most welding supply houses, or from your beverage provider.
• In many areas, expect to exchange your empty tank for a filled one, much like a gas grill LP bottle exchange. Exchange programs are desirable because the gas provider is responsible for testing and maintaining tank integrity.

What is the difference between a steel and an aluminum CO2 tank?

• They both work and distribute the gas the same way. The main difference is the weight.

Which ever you use, make sure you stand it upright and do not lay it down sideways. There is liquid CO2 in the tank, and it will ruin your regulator and beer.

• Steel tanks may rust after several years use inside of a keg cooler.

What kind of coupler should I purchase? TOP

• This depends on the type of beer you are tapping. Most American beers use Sankey couplers. Some may take the 2-probe coupler. Import beers take a different coupler, depending upon where the beer is coming from. You should confirm the keg coupler type with your local beer supplier.

Following is a listing of some common keg coupler and beer brand combinations. Please be aware that local brewer’s kegs may not always conform to these suggested couplers.

What is the proper CO2 pressure to use? Does the beer type matter? TOP

• On a regular beer system (short run), with the proper line sizing (5’ of 3/16” I.D. soft beer line) you should use around 12 pounds of pressure. Light beer may take a pound or two more pressure.

How long (how many kegs) should a CO2 bottle last? TOP

• A 5-pound CO2 bottle will dispense six to eight 16-gallon kegs using 12 pounds of pressure or around ¾ of a pound per keg.

How do I run a keg box using an external CO2 tank? (True and Bev Air) TOP

• On many keg coolers, there is a removable plug, or a knock out hole in the interior near the compressor enclosure. Simply remove the plug or knock out, make a hole in the insulation and run your CO2 line into the box.
• After the CO2 line has been run through the hole, insulate around the hose with plumber’s putty or self expanding foam spray (Rapids 9M120).

Adapting a single keg cooler to a home bar-top: Though not recommended, this can be accomplished with extreme care. You will be required to cut a hole in your bar top!

• You can put your portable keg box right under the bar, line up the draft arm hole on the top of the keg box and make a same sized hole in the bar top. Add insulation to the space between the bottom of the bar and the top of the keg box. Cut a hole in the insulation, so you can look down into the box from the hole in the bar. Mount the draft arm to the bar top using the screw holes provided in the flange.
• After the draft arm in mounted, take the chill tube from inside the keg box and attach it to the inside of the draft arm. This will keep the temperature in the keg box and the draft arm the same.
• Foaming beer could indicate insufficient insulation between the bar top and the keg cooler.

What is the advantage of a double vs. single regulator? TOP

• The single gauge regulator will only tell you how much pressure in going into your keg.
• A double gauge regulator will show line pressure and it will also indicate how much gas is left in the tank. This way you can see when you are getting low (down to the red section) and need a refill.

How big is a keg of beer (in inches)? TOP

• They can vary a little. Standard straight walled Sankey kegs are generally between 15” to 17” in diameter and 23” to 25” high. You will need approximately 28” in height to make this work in a converted refrigerator beer system. Local and micro brewers and regional brewers may use different cooperage. Please consult your beer provider for further details.
• Half kegs contain 16 gallons of beer; Quarter kegs (pony kegs) contain 8 gallons of beer.
• Micro brewers and home brewers will often use 5 gallon bulk tanks (often called Cornelius tanks) that measure 8-1/2” in diameter and 25-1/4” tall.

How do I change the CO2 bottle mid-keg? TOP

• Shut off the valve on top of the CO2 tank and un-tap the keg.
• Back the screw that regulates the pressure all the way out.
• Put the new tank on the system.
• After making sure every thing is tight, open the valve and turn the screw to the right until the desired pressure is set.
• Re-tap the keg. Once the keg is tapped, double check the regulator pressure to assure the pressure is still holding to the preset.

What causes foamy beer? TOP

There can be many reasons, but here are some of the most common ones.

• Temperature change (if cold beer hits warm beer lines).
• A system that isn’t balanced correctly (Wrong size beer hose and/or CO2 pressure).
• The cabinet is holding a temperature that is too high.
• A dirty beer system.

What temperature should the beer be at the faucet? TOP

• Beer temperature is a personal preference. Colder beer takes less CO2 pressure to push than warmer beer. 36 degree beer should take around 12 pounds of pressure. Add 1 pound of pressure for every 2 degrees in temperature rise. When a system is set up properly, the beer temperature should be within 1 degree of what it is in the storage area.

How long will tapped beer last before going flat? TOP

• Different beer companies have differing ideas on draft beer. Some brewers say a keg should only be on tap for a certain amount of time to insure peak freshness and taste. This mainly pertains to a bar or a restaurant.
• If tapped with the proper CO2 pressure and kept cold the beer should last quite awhile and never go flat. If anything beer will get a bite to it, if it becomes over carbonated.
• Over carbonation can be prevented by keeping track of when the keg is getting low. If the beer has been on tap for over a month, after drinking your evening beer, un-tap the keg or shut the CO2 off. (More applicable to home or low volume user.)

REPAIR AND MAINTENANCE TOP

Who do I contact with warranty problems? TOP

• First contact the manufacturers Tech Support line. The phone number is inside the cabinet of most equipment.

Finding a CO2 leak TOP

• This could take some time if it’s a slow leak. First make sure all of the clamps are tight and there is some kind of washer between the regulator and the tank. There are two types, a round one with a small hole in the center (plastic or fiber) or a quad ring built right into the regulator stem or CO2 tank. If these are bad or missing, they will need to be replaced. Never use two washers on one connection, this could cause a leak. Start at the tank and work to the keg tap. Turn the toggle on the regulator sideways, to shut off the gas supply to the hose (the gas is on, if the toggle arm is in line with the CO2 hose). Open your gas tank valve till the needles on the gauges move up. Then close the valve on the tank. The needles on the gauges should stay where they are if there’s not a leak (again if it’s a slow leak, it may take some time to go down). If they go down, the problem is in the regulator. Either the regulator diaphragm is bad, or there is a defective gauge or toggle, but it’s usually the diaphragm.
• If a gauge or toggle has been replaced, it may be leaking where they connect to the regulator. Use either plumbers tape or sealing compound to help prevent any air leak at the pipe threads.
• If the leak is not at the tank or regulator, un-tap the keg, and follow the same procedures as above, but make sure the toggle is pointing to the CO2 line, so gas is going into the line. If the clamps are good and tight and still leaking, it must be in your keg tap. There are gas seals on the probe and/or on the inside of the body on your tap (depending on what make it is). These could need replaced. When you do take your tap apart and replace these, you should use a parts lube (3H540) on the O ring and inside of the tap body to reduce friction and make them last longer.
• If there is still a leak, it could be the seals on the bottom of the tap, where the coupler seals to the keg or that the keg is damaged where the two meet and are not making a tight seal. There is a keg seal and probe seal. If either is missing or cracked, they will need to be replaced. If the keg is not making a good seal because of some damage, only the beer distributor can remedy the problem.

Why does the faucet drip? Is there a rebuild kit? TOP

• The shaft seat (110032) is worn out or the internal parts of the faucet are probably dirty and need to be cleaned. See the diagrams at the end of this booklet for part names and catalog numbers.

How often should I clean my system? (Keg box, long draw) TOP

• Long draw systems should be cleaned every two weeks. Keg boxes once a month in commercial applications. Cleaning frequency can go up during warmer weather.

Line cleaning chemicals, which to use when? TOP

• A professional might want to use a stronger cleaner like, Double Alkaline Cleaner (DAC1), Penetrate (5N147), or line cleaners DEC1 or BLC1. The 5N147 and DAC1 can only be purchased in cases of 12 bottles, and is not for the home brewer as it is very strong. Some cleaners are considered caustic and must be transported as HAZMAT materials at higher shipping expense. See the Rapids catalog for notices on HAZMAT products.
• For a home brewer or someone with a home keg box, the super no-rinse NC837, PLC1 powdered cleaner, or BLC1 liquid concentrate are good cleaners.
• DEC1 is a good cleaner, but only comes in a gallon bottle, using 1 to 2 ounces for a gallon of water, depending on how dirty the lines are. DEC1 has a bright green color and can easily be spotted if there is any solution left in the line.
• It’s best to let the solution sit in the line for a while before flushing to dissolve any sediment or scale buildup on the line’s interior walls.
• Remember, it’s not only what is used, but how often it is used. Get on a cleaning schedule and stick with it. Patrons may not notice the taste of beer coming out of clean lines, but they will immediately notice the taste of beer served out of fouled lines.

Keg Cooler Maintenance Tips TOP

• Remember to clean the refrigeration coils of your keg box as recommended in your owner’s manual.
• Do not use cleaners that contain chlorine on stainless steel surfaces!
• If you will not be using your keg box for several days and the keg is low, remove the CO2 pressure by decoupling your kegs. Constant CO2 pressure will over carbonate the beer, causing foam and a “bite” to the beer’s flavor.
• If your coupler has a ball in it, you will need to lift the ball to allow the cleaning solution to pass through. Rapids Sankey Ball Valve Lifter (FT137) is the correct tool for this job. In a pinch a wire coat hanger can be bent to fit, but may damage the ball valve. (Most operators who have short beer lines of 4 to 5 feet remove the ball valves from their couplers before putting them in service.)